The sound of crashing waves
This year’s rainy season here in Japan ended sooner than usual. However, my first rainy season had been an experience. There were two days here in Saga where the rainfall was so bad that some roads started to flood and transportation was reduced to crawling. Saga city on average is two meters above sea level making it very flat in comparison to places like Karatsu or Arita in the north where the elevation past the mountain range increases. After a quick google search whilst writing this blog I confirmed that the prefecture with the lowest elevation is Akita, its elevation is minus 4 meters below sea level, the highest point is naturally Mt. Fuji and the surrounding prefectures.
In the center of the city the water level in the old castle moat rose in places where it nearly covered the surrounding paths. The humidity during the rainy season made it hard to dry my washing as it clung to fabrics, hair and skin. The temperature during the rainy season was in one word “uncomfortable”. But, quicker than usual, the blue skies resumed, and the temperatures once again skyrocketed to the high thirties.
There is a poetic irony when people crave for the rain to stop and the cold to vanish, they long for the sun and the warmth, they dream about sunbathing by the ocean. For the sun to only return with a newfound desire to burn every living being to a crisp. That is how it felt in Kyushu when the rain vanished, and the deathly heat ray resumed. My aircon sprung into life and my fan was dragged into my room in the smallest hope that sleep wouldn’t become liquid death.
After about a week of highs constantly feeling like forty degrees, enough was enough, I craved the sound of crashing waves and the beach. Saga and Fukuoka share a beautiful stretch of coastline in the north. My destination was Fukuoka’s seaside tower the tallest seaside tower in Japan. It overlooks a stunning view of the Sea of Japan including beautiful islands in both prefectures. The beach here was a no swimming zone but the beach was alive with people who also shared the same idea. People were playing volleyball, enjoying ice cream and sunbathing. The sound of the waves was distant but the whole vibe was making me sleepy.
The next day I ventured out on the stretch of railway connecting Fukuoka to Karatsu in Saga for one of the prettiest trainline views in my prefecture. The train line hugged the coastline, and the turquoise seas and sky-blue cloudless sky framed the many islands perfectly. The train went through tunnels, passed small fishing villages and snaked its way into Saga where I finally disembarked at Hamasaki. If you are going by car or bike you can stop at the American beach before heading to this destination. I had the chance to eat Icecream in December there with a friend, the vibe was amazing people were still surfing, and the weather was comfortable.
My destination was a fifteen-minute walk from Hamasaki station along a forest road through Sagas famous pine forest shaped like a fan beneath Mt. Kagame. My destination was the Green Beach House nestled away within the forest. One simply walked through the curtain of trees to be greeted with the sound of crashing waves and the sight of light fluffy golden sand. The view here is beautiful, and the beach continues all the way down into Karatsu.
The Green Beach House was my destination for one reason alone; I wanted to experience that Japanese tradition I had seen in anime. The beach BBQ! Different from yakiniku it is simply a BBQ like those enjoyed around the world whenever temperatures increase, unless you are in Australia where every day is BBQ. I wanted to BBQ my own food, enjoy the sound of waves and escape the sun’s deadly beams whilst enjoying the smell of meat cooking over charcoal.
The Green Beach House offers two different courses you can buy for four thousand yen, a meat course or a seafood course, both include use of the BBQ, a selection of vegetables, rice and seasoning. The atmosphere was relaxing and casual and the smell of the coals made me nostalgic, reminding me of the food festival I visited before leaving for Japan the year prior.
The selection of meat was generous including two chicken wings, a selection of galbi, two proper sausages, chicken and chunks of beef. The vegetables included corn, asparagus, onion, green pepper and tomatoes. The portion size was enough for two people to enjoy. You can also bring along some of your own meat and drinks and simply rent the equipment. But the sets were amazing value, and I really enjoyed the variety. The bar offers a variety of drinks and access to rent surfboards, scuba gear and floats for children. It truly gave of island life vibes; it is easy to forget at times Kyushu is an island connected via a bridge to Honshu and the rest of Japan.
All in all, this experience was perfect, and I can finally say I had my first BBQ of the summer and what better than on the beach overlooking the waves. My highlight was the chicken wing the skin was crispy and golden, and the meat was cooked to perfection my compliments to the chef… me! I hope I can have another BBQ this summer and enjoy the sea more next time. I truly recommend this place to those visiting Kyushu and as many visitors travel to Fukuoka what better than grabbing the line at Hakata and riding it to Hamasaki whilst soaking in the beautiful scenery! The opportunity to enjoy your own private BBQ cannot be passed up!
