The graveyard night walk

Okunoin cemetery sprawls through a dense forest of conifers for as far as the eye can see. The cemetery is around 2 km and lined with cobblestone paths. Along the walk, there are numerous lanterns to light one’s way, each depicting the moon in various stages, an iconic symbol within Buddhism. Upon entering the forest, the atmosphere grows eerily still. There are over 200,000 graves within the forest of feudal lords, monks and the people of yesterday's Japan. along the walk towards the inner sanctum, visitors can enjoy nature and the remarkable stone headstones. There are stone tori and statues dotted around, adorning many of the graves.

The cemetery can be visited at night or during the day and there are many tours on offer to immerse guests in the history, religion and superstition woven within Japanese culture. Many of these tours are conducted by the monks and for guests who do no speak Japanese there are also many options as many of the monks speak other languages.

I visited the cemetery during both the day and night, with my travel buddy and I am very happy I decided to do this. The journey during the day allowed me to see everything clearly and learn the layout. The walk through the cemetery is a fair trek and the daylight truly allows you to grasp how big the cemetery really is. As someone who has visited many graveyards around the world and even wrote a thesis on the magnificent seven in London. It is always fascinating to me how much you can learn from graveyards. The headstones often include symbols that give us a glimpse into a time gone by. The same is said for Okunoin. There are many statues and even commissioned graves within the grounds and visitors maybe fascinated to see the commissioned graves. These are commissioned by big companies such as Honda, Canon, Asahi and many more these commemorate the workers who supported their companies and passed away either during or after. A tradition not seen within the UK at the very least.

Graveyards teach us a lot about peoples believes or attitudes towards death and certainly within Japan a lot of respect is give for those no longer here. families have altars to honour fallen relatives, every Obon families visit graves and clean them and leave offerings. In Okunoin many of the graves you see are for an entire family line. Some of the newer graves are in immaculate condition whilst the older have fallen into disrepair. Perhaps the last member of that family has passed away and there are no more to clean the grave. Japan is a country with a declining population it is very common for families to vanish into the pages of history. Graveyards allow us a brief glimpse into the names not always included in history books.

At night Okunoin cemetery took on a new vibe one of stillness and almost calm. The lights of the lanterns created a warm glow throughout the walkways. The graves where silhouetted by the golden light. I visited during Obon so the temperatures at night were still warm. But the temperature was comfortable for the walk, I advise all visitors to apply a generous helping of bug spray before their walk. At night the bugs are drawn to the lanterns and in the day, they are attracted to the human shaped snacks.

My Guide was a monk who originally was from Australia his English was superb and the knowledge he shared was very fascinating. I learnt about Buddhism and the Japanese traditions that surrounded death. There are two bridges within the cemetery the later is on the approach to the inner sanctum where the first ever monk who founded Koya is interred. The belief is he has entered eternal mediation and is waiting within the sanctum. During this section of the tour the weather decided to become dramatic as the monk recited a chant and the sound of the chanting the rain on the foliage and temple created a beautiful relaxing soundscape. The moment itself felt special and even though I am not Buddhist I will certainly remember this moment for its peace. I wished for nothing more than to continue exploring Japan with my travel buddy by myside. If buddha heard my wish I will never know.

Visitors are asked not to take images in the inner sanctum, and we were told that many ignore these rules. The inner sanctum is sacred to the monks who are very happy to let people see this section and share their knowledge. Visitors can take images everywhere else in the massive cemetery grounds. But if you do visit for the last section, put your phone away and just listen to nature for a few minutes. Koya teaches us about the beauty in nature and the brevity of life. For a few minutes nothing is needed but your eyes and your ears. Sometimes all that is needed is your memories and no images.

My trip to Koya will stay with me forever by far it was my favourite thing I did over Obon, and it also felt the most special. For a prefecture so close to the bustling city of Osaka, the cute deer of Nara and the traditional hotspot that is Kyoto. Wakayama is one of the least visited in the area. Despite this it was my most enjoyable moment. Koya offers a glimpse into another side of Japan. these days the percentage of Japanese people who see themselves as Buddhist is falling it remains just under fifty percent. A trip to Koya will allow you to experience another side of Japan that is equally important when learning about the country. Kyoto offers the beautiful buildings of the past, the traditional tea ceremonies and kimonos. Nara offers temples and deer. Wakayama can offer you an experience into the religious side.

The chance to stay at a temple and experience the life of a monk may not appeal to many but it is a once in a lifetime opportunity if taken. The area is spectacular and there are many places that can be visited for no fee. I highly recommend that Wakayama is added to more visit lists and hope that more people can experience the beauty of Koya. My trip opened my eyes to another aspect of Japanese culture which I was not overly familiar with.