Shrine of big lottery wins? – Hoto Shrine, Takashima Island, Saga
Just off the shore of Karatsu Bay lies the island of Takashima. About 450 years ago, pirates often attacked the island, so the small community built a special shrine, hoping the gods would protect them. Years later, during the Heisei period, Takashima’s name became famous for bringing good luck. Excited visitors began winning lotteries and finding fortune, and soon rumours spread across Japan. Today, Takashima is known as the “lucky shrine island,” welcoming over 200,000 visitors every year who hope to get a little luck of their own!
The island itself is small and looks quiet and simple from Karatsu, but it hides many surprises. You can reach Takashima by water bus or a fun water taxi, which you can catch from the car park at Karatsu Castle, a fantastic place to visit in its own right! The castle stands high above the bay and can be seen from the island, while the view looking back at the bay from Takashima is simply breathtaking. The bay curves gently, creating a beautiful panoramic scene. Life on the island revolves around fishing, and most people have their own boats. I arrived in peaceful silence, broken only by the sound of the sea. The island’s small population means that many old houses stand empty, slowly disappearing as wild plants and trees grow, giving the place a mysterious and magical feel.
Life on the island is squeezed onto its southern edge, leaving little room for its small community. There is a single school, and I happened to know the ALT who made the weekly journey to teach there. With just a few children left, the classes were small and usually consisted of mixed grades. This blog continues the story I began with Shikoku, where depopulation is happening on a grand scale. On Takashima, the effects are even more striking and immediate. Across Japan, many islands have become ghost towns, and Saga’s neighbour, Nagasaki, is dotted with tiny islands, such as Itoshima, which I am eager to visit. Takashima has only one road, and the houses huddle together so closely that the paths between them are barely wide enough to walk. There is no convenience store, and visitors will find that there are no public toilets.
As I ventured further north on the island, my mobile signal faded away, so keep that in mind if you visit. If you are feeling lucky, follow the trail of white cat paw prints painted on the ground. They lead you to Hoto Shrine, a hidden gem nestled quietly between buildings. Though small, the shrine is enchanting, especially in May when the wisteria seating area bursts into bloom. Inside, you will find souvenirs and charms, each one promising to boost your luck. When I was there, a tour group had made the journey, and many visitors were scratching lottery tickets, all hoping for a stroke of fortune.
For me, the visit was another glimpse at a world slowly being reclaimed by nature. The shrine is beautiful, and I fully recommend the visit, but afterwards, I recommend taking a peaceful stroll around the town to see a world trapped in time. The beach near the harbour is full of rusting machinery; there is a playground and a lone wooden gazebo. The island is home to some cats, which I saw being promoted on a building. Many islands in Japan, which have become known as cat islands, are usually where the cat population overtakes the human one. But slowly, even these cute islands become ghost towns, the ageing population struggling to look after the resident felines. Many of the more famous cat islands are slowly being depopulated, and the cats are being sent to rescues and back to the mainland in fears once the last human vanishes, the cats will starve.
The island is worth a visit for those wanting a quieter trip into rural Japan. The sea taxi and sea ferry are frequent, and you will only need to allow about two hours maximum for your trip. Beware that there are no bathrooms on the island, and there is only a sandwich shop should you get hungry. But I am very glad I took the trip; the island was quiet and serene.
