Rainy season in Japan

After living in Japan for two years, I realised that I have never written a blog on the rainy season. But there are plenty on surviving the intense Japanese summer. Japan is mostly described as having a sub-tropical climate; it has a defined rainy season which is usually mid-June to early July. This season ties in with the start of typhoon season, which runs through until around September. These dates are a rough guide, but last year’s rainy season only lasted about a week, and visitors whose trips run close to or through this timeframe should check daily weather conditions and predictions. Weather channels will report when the rainy season for the year will start; as it draws closer, they usually declare it specifically down to the day. Depending on which prefecture you are in, days may vary slightly. Okinawa is always a few weeks earlier, whilst Hokkaido is always later.

 The rainy season is my least favourite season in Japan; not only does it rain almost constantly for the entire time, but the humidity sharply rises to 100 percent making everything wet and uncomfortable. It becomes difficult to avoid getting sick because of the heat; offices will crank the aircon up to max, meaning if you go in wet you will eventually feel very cold. I was told by coworkers that this season is the one where most ALTs or foreigners get sick. For me it’s the two extremes: the heat and the cold. The rain is relentless, and alerts for flooding, landslides and high wind and waves are frequent.

Literally last night my prefecture issued a level 4 landslide warning as the area was pelted by continuous rain from linear banding cloud formation. Flat prefectures risk flooding whist mountainous prefectures risk landslides. For those new to the rainy season, the experience can be unsettling. From the constant emergency alerts for evacuation to public transport being fully cancelled and being told to prepare for evacuation. Areas can suddenly receive over 200ml of rain within an hour; there are many videos online showing this year’s Kyushu downpour filling rivers in an hour via timelapse.

Often did I hear the joke “you’re from the UK, this is normal for you!” And yes, the UK is famous for being a very rainy country; summer is usually a washout. But the rainy season feels different; the rain feels more damaging. Landslides have killed many people during the rainy season, and flooding in flat areas is very real. Last night the emergency Tanoy system went off three times, announcing for people to brace for a possible disaster.

In the UK, whilst it is cold, wet and generally cloudy all the time, rain doesn’t annually hammer the UK solid for up to a month with no break; there are often small breaks and cloudy afternoons. The level of rainfall is more consistent and not a constant torrential downpour. It is rare for schools to close due to rain in the UK, but in Japan, especially the more rural areas, school closures are common, and in my city my schools closed for two days last week. This being said, the UK broke records at the start of the year for receiving a month of continuous rain and no one noticing because it’s usual for the country. The weather this year has been a roller coaster, and the UK is now experiencing its third heatwave.

 For those still adamant about vacationing during rainy season, I advise getting a very good umbrella and decent waterproof shoes or boots. I would advise using anti-sweat sheets; spending too much time outside leaves sweat pouring and getting into your eyes. The sweat sheets help and provide some cooling. I would advise downloading the Nerv app or safety tips; this will allow you to receive emergency alerts in your area, which are in real time as situations can change in minutes. I would advise you to travel light and plan for delays and cancellations. Bring spare socks and a change of clothes should you get wet, and take a warm shower after a day of being in the rain. During storms, headaches can be frequent for those prone to them, so taking medication to combat them may be needed.

Rainy season is just another part of Japanese life, one that people combat and try their best to prepare for. Most cities have good drainage options, and I have written a blog on the megastructure under Tokyo designed to remove vast quantities of water quickly and efficiently. Not every area is as lucky to have its own megastructure, but it is often surprising to me when I look out of the window and see Noah’s great flood during the night and the next morning everything is seemingly normal, just wet. People continue as if nothing happened, and most of the water has been drained into city canals and channels. The key to thriving during this season is planning, staying alert and being flexible. The rainy season is part of everyday life, and after the rain comes the intense, unrelenting heat of summer.

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