Shika no ko no ko – Enter the kingdom ruled by the mighty deer! Nara deer park.
I recently stumbled across the news that Nara has surpassed Kyoto as Japan’s most visited prefecture. I once swore I’d never brave Kansai during a major holiday, yet here I am, ready to share the adventure. My plan for the day was simple: wander through Nara’s parks and temples, and, above all, finally check off the top item on my Nara bucket list, getting head-butted by a deer. With little else on my agenda except meeting the city’s four-legged royalty, I let the day unfold at its own relaxed pace.
I hopped on a train from Kyoto and, in just 40 minutes, found myself in Nara. The transit here never fails to impress me; zipping between prefectures is quick, affordable, and almost effortless. My trusty IC card made every journey smooth, and the balance seemed to last forever. Stepping off the train, I was instantly welcomed by a parade of deer-themed everything: statues, photos, and a sea of adorable merchandise celebrating Nara’s antlered ambassadors. Just as Kumamon reigns in Kumamoto, the deer are the undisputed icons here. Road signs warn drivers to watch for wandering deer, shops and snacks are named in their honor, and shelves overflow with plushies and souvenirs that would delight any deer enthusiast.
Nara Park is home to over 1,200 Shika deer. They are protected by the Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science, and Technology, aka MEXT. The park itself was established in 1880, when it was first designated as a park. The park is not only home to the rulers of Nara, but also to tanuki, flying squirrels, and wild boar. The deer are considered sacred, and killing them is a capital offence, with the last breach of this law being in 1637. After the Second World War, the deer were stripped of their titles and status as sacred. However, they are now seen as a natural monument; one could take this as the deer themselves transcending to become one unanimous monument. I was amused at the thought of a talking deer answering a tourist asking “Where is the temple? With “honey no, I am the temple,” please read this in a sassy voice. It is encouraged to buy designated deer crackers to offer to the rulers at Nara Park.
After stashing my backpack in a locker, I stepped out of the station and was immediately welcomed by two deer lounging nonchalantly on a patch of green between the roads, completely indifferent to the passing cars and the eager photographers. The Lawson by the station was a treasure trove of souvenirs, from quirky T-shirts to local snacks. The path to the park is simple: just walk straight past Lawson and let the flow of people guide you. Sunshine graced my visit, and the leafy trees around the temple offered a cool, gentle shade that made the day even more pleasant. The main park unfolds before the temple area, but deer roam freely in both. I watched as many of them perfected their adorable 'feed me now' routine, complete with their famous bow. The bowing deer of Nara are legendary, an image that often precedes any actual journey to Japan.
When I visited Miyajima in Hiroshima, I met the island’s infamous deer, who have a reputation as the rowdier, wilder cousins of the Nara deer. These Miyajima deer are said to be rude and foul-tempered, always ready to head butt or launch a surprise attack on anyone with food. While my friend left his bag with me to buy something, I glanced at my phone for just a moment and suddenly heard a loud rustling. Expecting someone to be sitting down, I looked up and found a large brown deer with its head buried deep in the bag, searching for my friend’s snacks. I quickly shooed the deer away, since the food wasn’t safe for it, but the deer let out a sad dejected sound, clearly offended by my rejection. Later, I watched another deer try to barge into a store, only to be chased off by the owner as they were closing. The deer on this island have attitude, and they are not shy about using their size to topple bags or bump into anyone holding something tasty.
The deer in Nara have mastered the art of persuasion: they know that a polite bow will earn them a cracker from any passing human. Along the forest paths, you’ll spot deer bowing with theatrical enthusiasm, hoping for a tasty reward. But as soon as the crackers appear, all manners vanish. I watched tourists drop their crackers in panic as a wave of eager deer closed in. Even without crackers my travel companion became a snack for a deer who was dejected by the lack of crackers. The deer decided to take a munch on their t-shirt instead. I also regretted my decision to wear a shirt with long flowing sleeves.
The temple is beautiful, and deer line the path leading towards the main sections, there are small stores within the forest where crackers can be bought. But beware these places only take cash. The further into the temple you explore the number of deer will reduce as most stick to the heavily trafficked areas.
There are signs in English and Japanese politely asking guests to stay on the path; however, I saw many ignoring the signs to take images of the path, even to the point of chasing a deer, which wasn’t interested in being in the selfie. Anyone visiting should respect that deer are animals and whilst it is immense fun to feed them and be swarmed by them, they have their limits and will head into the forest area to rest. There are plenty of deer dotted along the pathways and in the main park that want to be fed and will probably sit for a selfie or two, but exercise respect. There are also signs telling people not to touch foals. As cute as the babies are, it can result in the mother rejecting them, as they will smell of humans and this results in an orphaned deer.
Nara felt like a breath of fresh air, with its wide-open spaces making the crowds seem far less overwhelming than in Kyoto. The day was filled with laughter, especially thanks to the playful deer who made every moment memorable. My friend wore a shirt featuring the Pokémon Maushold, famous for their dramatic screams, and when a deer latched on, the mouse’s panicked pose on the shirt made for a hilarious scene. Deer snacks are affordable, and the Nara Park area is packed with tempting places for humans to eat. We stumbled upon a Korean spot with an all-you-can-drink deal, but the choices for food and drink are nearly endless.
Nara is worth a visit and can be enjoyed even on the busier days, which is nice. Be sure to check if any events are on in the park and check out the numerous keyhole burials in the region. This region is home to the largest number of keyhole burials in Japan, and I plan to do a write-up on them later.
