My Golden week adventure (Part 1): We ate a whole chicken for brunch, in the warehouse of a café… in the walls of a fortress! Not clickbait!!!

Location – Cheongju, Seoul, Incheon and Bucheon

Golden Week arrived nearly nine months after I landed in Japan, and it marked the first time I decided to take a holiday outside of Japan. I enlisted a Canadian friend who was eager for the adventure, and the planning began. Fun fact: Kyushu is closer to South Korea than it is to Tokyo! In some cases, flights to South Korea can be as short as fifty minutes to southern destinations. I must admit, I left the planning for this trip until the last-minute waiting on payday, but I was still able to score a deal that I’m happy about. But I do not recommend doing what I did, planning is key.

I believe it was about five days until Golden Week when, after nights of searching for cheap flights and destinations, an option presented itself. We decided to fly into Cheongju and then take a train to Seoul, planning to depart from Incheon. Flights to Cheongju were very reasonable, and this choice would also allow us to explore a less crowded city while sightseeing in different parts of the country during our train journey to the capital.

My experience in Cheongju was wonderful and it prepared me for the upcoming visit to the capital city. My hotel was very spacious, and I appreciated the large bath. This trip made me realize how much progress I’ve made in my Japanese studies. Upon landing, I quickly found myself back in a familiar situation where I could only say "hello" and "thank you," struggling to accomplish even the simplest tasks. To the point when I finally returned to Japan, I felt almost relieved that I could somewhat read and hear words. If I heard Japanese spoken in the crowds in Korea, my ear would tune in making me realise that despite believing I know nothing I certainly had made progress.

Since Cheongju is less touristy, there were fewer opportunities to find English speakers. Despite the stress and being completely out of my comfort zone, I’m proud to say that we didn’t miss out.

My first night introduced me to an authentic stone grill BBQ experience like yakiniku, yet with enough differences to stand out on its own. The meat served in Korean stone BBQ is predominantly pork, and when I say the cuts are generous, I truly mean it. This was my introduction to a cuisine that I would quickly fall in love with.

That first night was filled with nerves, but as soon as the melt-in-your-mouth pork hit my taste buds, my anxiety was swiftly replaced by a sense of accomplishment. I had the option to stay in my room and sleep since it was late, or to visit the amazing convenience stores (which I'll write about in a comparison blog later). Ultimately, I chose to dive into my Korean holiday right away, and that meal will always stay with me. The food in Korea is very reasonably priced, and many things are generally cheaper. Places stay open till the early hours and some places we saw never closed they were permanently opening something that I found exciting as I often find myself up at night. South Korea does not sleep, and you can have an amazing food experience even at two in the morning.

One thing I quickly noticed was the presence of bins. Unlike in Japan, where bins are scarce, I found them readily available on the streets and at stations, which relieved me of the burden of packaging and food waste. However, I did quickly realize the lack of vending machines.

My first stop was Sangdamgseong Fortress, located about an hour from the city in the hills. The fortress offers stunning views and serves as a tranquil escape from the bustling metropolis. A light fog hung in the air, giving the small fortress town within the keep the appearance of a hidden city. It was picturesque, and I couldn't help but squeal with delight when I spotted my first chipmunk in the wild, bouncing around in search of food. The hidden village was enveloped in fog, and I could hear frogs croaking around the lake.

While deciding to have brunch, the search for a place to eat began. The location was so rural that there wasn't a single bit of English to be found, which presented a new challenge. After exploring a few options and hesitating on some choices, I ultimately made a decision that will forever stand out as one of the wildest experiences of my trip. I ended up eating a whole chicken in a warehouse with a Canadian in a hidden village in South Korea. As crazy as it sounds, it really happened!

I had seen the dish "native chicken in soup" listed on many menus in the village, and after feeling anxious about not finding a place to try it, I decided to be brave. By the time I found this final restaurant, I felt as if I had been taken over by the spirit of determination! I was eager to escape the rain and eat something local. After struggling a bit with Google Lens, I managed to point at two items on the menu: the native chicken and a potato pancake, thankfully for us brand names are the same so coke cola was the drink of choice. The owner was kind enough to understand my gestures and quickly led me to a selection of complimentary sides on offer.

The significance of the order struck me when she instructed us to wait for forty minutes. I took that opportunity to ask chat GBT about the dish I had ordered. Native chicken refers to a breed unique to the country. Traditionally, it is served as a whole chicken or duck cooked in a broth, often with rice stuffed inside the bird, depending on the region. The dish is accompanied by chestnuts and a variety of local herbs. It has a very mild and herby flavour, making it a comforting option for someone who is feeling unwell. Although we quickly devoured the potato pancake, knowing what I know now, I almost regret ordering that starter.

Forty minutes passed as we immersed ourselves in the soothing ambience of a language we couldn’t understand, accompanied by the sound of rain falling on the roof. It was calming, and our anxiety began to fade. When the dish arrived, our nerves completely vanished, quickly replaced by laughter and a desire to take photos that proved this incredible meal was real.

A whole chicken rested in a mild broth alongside glutinous rice, with a variety of herbs in the pot. The fun began as we sorted through the chicken, and I quickly found joy in presenting the tender pieces to my now hungry battle companion. Our mission was to finish the chicken and enjoy as much food as possible. Neither of us wanting to leave anything after it had taken so long to prepare. Since neither of us had eaten breakfast, starting the day with a whole boiled chicken was certainly an exciting choice.

The chicken meat was herby and came with a sesame seed salt dip which paired amazingly with the meat. It was certainly a messy dish and a blunder on my combat partners side saw the broth wipe out one of the salt dips! But it was fun so much fun that it maybe one of my favourite memories of Korea.

After enjoying a meal fit for a king, our next destination was the museum in South Korea. We took enjoyed the free exhibitions and had fun walking off the calories from brunch. Following our adventures in the hills, it was time to head to the train station and start planning our transfer to Seoul.

In Korea, we relied on T-money cards, which are like IC cards. These cards allowed us to pay for transit and even use some of the vending machines we encountered. I recommend purchasing a card at the airport to ensure it is updated, as the one I had was second-hand and a bit unreliable. However, the cost of transportation was reasonable, and before long, we were on our way to the capital.

The train we boarded was wider than the Japanese trains I was accustomed to and reminded me more of a train I had ridden in Romania. As we travelled, the rural countryside began to give way to buildings and the tall skyscrapers that South Korea is known for. Soon, the landscape transformed into a bustling cityscape, and our adventure in Seoul was about to begin!