Indigo dye, whirlpools and agriculture, Tokushima review
Shikoku is made up of four prefectures, and Tokushima was the last one left on my list that I needed to explore. Tokushima is known for its swirling whirlpools, vibrant indigo dye, and the quirky claim of having Japan’s tiniest mountain, standing just 6.1 meters tall. It has long been an agricultural giant, and before the Meiji Restoration, its capital ranked among Japan’s ten largest cities. While many rural prefectures have seen their populations dwindle, Tokushima’s numbers have held steady for half a century. Recent disaster models warn of the island’s vulnerability to the Nankai thrust, which does little to attract new residents. Yet, for those willing to look beyond the usual destinations, Tokushima is a treasure. Its coastline stretches endlessly, the mountains are breathtaking, and the capital’s castle-town layout means the city is mostly flat, perfect for exploring by bicycle.
Tokushima is within easy reach, whether you cross the sweeping bridges from the mainland or hop on a ferry from Osaka, making it a perfect stop for adventurous travellers exploring Japan. For a memorable journey, you can also catch a ferry to Kitakyushu, which is how I chose to return to Kyushu. Highway buses from the mainland offer a scenic ride, letting you soak in the changing landscapes along the way. If you visit in summer, be prepared for intense heat and limited shade in the flat capital. Remember to stay hydrated and take precautions to avoid heat stroke.
When I visited in March, the weather was wonderfully mild, making it a perfect time to explore. The whirlpools are a mesmerising sight, and with several companies offering different tours, there is something for everyone. It is fascinating to think that the swirling waters we see today are just a shadow of their former size. Tokushima’s vibrant history, once fueled by its famous Indigo dye, comes alive at the Indigo Museum. I highly recommend adding this spot to your travel wish list. Creating my own indigo tie-dye scarf was a highlight; the finished piece was both beautiful and a one-of-a-kind keepsake that fit easily in my suitcase. The museum does a fantastic job of sharing the story and techniques behind indigo dyeing, with gorgeous examples on display. The surrounding area is picturesque, and the staff are ready to assist visitors who do not speak much Japanese. Since the museum is located well outside the city Centre, you will need to drive or catch a bus to get there. Having a car makes exploring this prefecture much easier.
Beyond the main city, public transport thins out, and I found myself challenged by the distances between attractions. The Akashi Kaikyo Bridge has brought new life to the prefecture, making it more accessible than many of Shikoku’s remote islands. Tokushima stands out for its close connection to Osaka, offering city dwellers a refreshing escape into tradition. The region is deeply rooted in its history, celebrated through vibrant festivals and events. In August, the streets come alive with the famous Awa Obon dance, a spirited tradition from Tokushima’s days as Awa, where people of all ages join in the joyful celebration.
I enjoyed my visit to the prefecture, even briefly; the scenery was nice, and the experiences I took part in were fun. The whirlpools are a must-see, as there are only a handful of places in the world with whirlpools. Tokushima made it its mission to share information and friendship with other places in the world that have whirlpools. Two which caught my attention were Scotland and Norway. The prefecture offers those who love outdoor experiences many great options, such as white-water rafting and even surfing. The prefecture also has a lot to offer to those who love sake, and paired with its stunning coastal sites and beaches, it offers a lot of chances to unwind and relax. There are many beaches, including Ohama beach, which is visited by turtles every summer to lay their eggs.
The prefecture offers fresh vegetables and great locally brewed sake; it is easy to see why it thrived so much on trade and its economy. I recommend visitors to plan a Shikoku visit and explore all four prefectures and what they have to offer. For those looking to get away from the crowds, the island is perfect. There are many great places to hike, and many forests on the island really convey the idea of a mystical island that is ancient and old. There are many abandoned places on the island, and many of the prefectures are experiencing shrinking populations. A trip to the island will show a different side of Japan than for those who stay in the big cities. Japan is a place of tradition and history, and like my own country, it has thousands of years of stories. The island of Shikoku is a place that offers history and beautiful scenery. For those who love anime, Kochi is the inspiration for the movie Belle, and there are even dedicated sites pinning all the locations used in the show. The island also features in Suzume, along with many more titles. The islands’ rural areas often rely on a single-track rail line or infrequent buses. For those looking to visit, it is best to plan with this in mind.
There were times during my visits to the four prefectures when I felt very rural. No taxi app works properly here, and there were many long walks to get to places or hotels. Regarding hotels, I recommend booking ahead as the selection of hotels is limited and double-check the location of your hotel to consider travel time. If you can rent a car, I believe the island of Shikoku would provide a very cool road trip experience, full of rural, isolated beaches and mountains, to bustling little capital cities. The island is tropical, surrounded by beautiful blue seas in the summer. It offers many camping opportunities, and beach BBQs are easy to find here. For those looking to really escape but also be within reach of civilisation if things go wrong, this is the place. Unlike Shimane, which is the most rural place I have visited, these four offer ruralness, but also the capitals and larger cities are still connected. I recommend it to those with some time to spare or for those looking for a unique experience away from the crowds.
